The Flying Pace, a two-beat gait where front and hind legs on the same side move forward
and back at the same time. This can go up to 35 mph! The gait of the gods!
Swimming
Swimming with Icelandic Horses is a prime example of its gentle
temperament and strength. Children cling to the horse's back as it
swims about, jutting its powerful legs through the water. It's a
nice break for both the rider and the horse on a hot summer day.
Icelandic Horses can swim through lakes, rivers, even in oceans,
gently carrying its passenger as it moves swiftly and easily through
the water.
Driving
The Icelandic has enormous pulling strength. They are able to pull
1.6 that of most breeds per pound of body weight. The Icelandic
Horse is easily trained to drive. They can be driven alone or in
numbers and they are able to perform all five gaits while driving.
Despite its small size, the Icelandic Horse can be used in various
activities. Driving is just one of many things that you can do with
the Icelandic Horse.
Riding in Winter
We have discussed the Icelandic in the water and driving, but what
about the Icelandic in its natural environment. While Iceland is
not as icy as people perceive, it still gets very cold. The
Icelandic can ride just as well in winter as in any other season.
Owners shoe the horses with winter with studs on their shoes in
winter to be able to move and stop easily.
Imagine an Icelandic on a lake. In areas where it gets cold
enough people will ride their Icelandic Horses across frozen lakes.
It is said to be quite a rush, and as always, the horse blooms in
its environment and is able to perform all five gaits on sheer ice!
Ponying
Ponying is most often used when going on long treks. By riding one
horse and leading others, it allows the rider to switch horses when
the ridden horse gets tired. Ponying can be done with one or
multiple horses.
Ponying is another example of the Icelandic Horses' temperament.
Most horse breeds demand personal space and don't interact well in
close spaces. Icelandics are not this way. They bond and travel in
communities, creating bonds with their herd and their riders.
Powerful Horses
Mix together boundless energy, the temperment of a pup, the
endurance of a giant, the gentleness of a lamb, and the gaits of the
gods...and you have the Icelandic Horse. Small and gentle enough
for any child... but powerful enough to carry a heavyweight champ
named George Foreman!
Icelandic Horse Care
EMERGENCY CARE
Guidelines to Follow During Equine Emergencies
If you own horses long enough, sooner or later you are likely to
confront a medical emergency. There are several behavioral traits
that make horses especially accident prone: one is their instinctive
flight-or-fight response; another is their dominance hierarchy --
the need to establish the pecking order within a herd; and a third
is their natural curiosity. Such behaviors account for many of the
cuts, bruises, and abrasions that horses suffer. In fact,
lacerations are probably the most common emergency that horse owners
must contend with. There are probably the most common emergency
that horse owners must contend with. There are other types of
emergencies as well, such as colic, foaling difficulties, acute
lameness, seizures, and illness. As a horse owner, you must know
how to recognize serious problems and respond promptly, taking
appropriate action while awaiting the arrival of your veterinarian.
Recognizing signs of Distress
When a horse is cut or bleeding, it's obvious that there is a
problem. But in cases of colic, illness, or a more subtle injury,
it may not be as apparent. That's why it's important to know your
horse's normal vital signs, including temperature, pulse and
respiration (TPR), as well as its normal behavior patterns. You
must be a good observer so that you readily recognize signs of ill
health.
What's Normal?
There will be variations in individual temperature, pulse and
respiration values. Take several baseline measurements when the
horse is healthy, rested, and relaxed. Write them down and keep
them within easy reach, perhaps with your first aid kit, so you have
them to compare to in case of an emergency.
Normal ranges for adult horses are:
-
Pulse rate: 30-42 beats per minute.
-
Respiratory rate: 12-20 breaths per minute.
-
Rectal temperature: 99.5' to 101.5' F. If the horse's temperature
exceeds 102.5' F., contact your veterinarian immediately.
Temperatures of over 103' F indicate a serious disorder.
-
Capillary refill time (time it takes for color to return to gum
tissue adjacent to teeth after pressing and releasing with your
thumb): 2 seconds.
Other observations you should note:
-
Skin pliability is tested by pinching or folding a flap of neck skin
and releasing. It should immediately snap back into place.
Failure to do so is evidence of dehydration.
-
Color of the mucous membranes of gums, nostrils, conjunctiva (inner
eye tissue), and inner lips of vulva should be pink. Bright red,
pale pink to white, or bluish-purple coloring may indicate
problems.
-
Color, consistency, and volume of feces and urine should be typical
of that individual's usual excretions. Straining or failure to
excrete should be noted.
-
Signs of distress, anxiety or discomfort.
-
Lethargy, depression or a horse that's "off-feed."
-
Presence or absence of gut sounds.
-
Evidence of lameness such as head-bobbing, reluctance to move, odd
stance, pain, unwillingness to rise.
-
Bleeding, swelling, evidence of pain.
-
Seizures, paralysis, or "tying up" (form of muscle cramps that
ranges in severity from mild stiffness to life threatening
illness).
Action Plan
No matter what emergency you may face in the future, mentally
rehearse what steps you will take to avoid letting panic take
control. Here are some guidelines to help you prepare:
-
Keep your veterinarian's number by each phone, including how that
practitioner can be reached after hours. If you have a speed dial
system, key it in, but also keep the number posted.
-
Consult with your regular veterinarian regarding back-up or
referring veterinarian's number in case you cannot reach your
regular veterinarian quickly enough.
-
Know in advance the most direct route to an equine surgery center in
case you need to transport the horse.
-
Post the names and phone numbers of nearby friends and neighbors who
can assist you in an emergency while you wait for the
veterinarian.
-
Prepare a first aid kit and store it in a clean, dry, readily
accessible place. Make sure that family members and other barn
users know where the kit is.
-
Also keep a first aid kit in your horse trailer or towing vehicle,
and a pared-down version to carry on the trail.
First Aid Kits
First aid kits can be simple or elaborate, but there are some
essential items. Here is a short list to get yours started.
(*Material that should be sterile.)
-
*Cotton roll
-
*Contact bandage
-
*Cling wrap
-
*Gauze pads, assorted sizes
-
*Gauze wrap
-
Adhesive wrap and adhesive tape
-
Leg wraps
-
Sharp scissors
-
Hemostats
-
Steel cup or container
-
Rectal thermometer with string and clip attached
-
Surgical scrub and antiseptic solution
-
Latex gloves
-
Flashlight and spare batteries
-
Permanent market pen
-
Pliers (to pull nails)
-
6" diameter PVC tubing cut in half the long way (like a gutter) into
lengths of 1-1/2 to 2 feet (for emergency splinting)
Emergency wound care
The sight of blood may unnerve you, but maintaining your presence of
mind can save your horse's life. The initial steps you take to
treat a wound can prevent further damage and speed healing. How you
proceed will depend on your individual circumstances, and you must
exercise good judgment. The following should be viewed as
guidelines:
*Catch and calm the horse to prevent further injury. Move the horse
to stall or other familiar surroundings if this is possible without
causing distress or further injury to the horse. Providing hay or
grain can also be a good distraction.
*Get help before attempting to treat or evaluate a wound. It can be
difficult and very dangerous to try to inspect or clean the wound
without someone to hold the horse. You cannot help your horse if
you are seriously injured yourself.
*Evaluate the location, depth, and severity of the wound. Call your
veterinarian for a recommendation anytime you feel your horse is in
need of emergency care. Here are some examples of situations where
your veterinarian should be called:
*There appears to be excessive bleeding.
*The entire skin thickness has been penetrated.
*The wound occurs near or over a joint.
*Any structures underlying the skin are visible.
*A puncture has occurred.
*A severe wound has occurred in the lower leg at or below
knee or hock level.
*The wound is severely contaminated.
Consult with your veterinarian regarding a recommendation before you
attempt to clean the wound or remove debris or penetrating objects,
as you may precipitate uncontrollable bleeding or do further damage
to the wound. Large objects should be stabilized to avoid damaging
movement if possible. Don't put anything on the wound except a
compress or cold water.
Stop the bleeding by covering the wound with a sterile, absorbent
pad (not cotton), applying firm, steady, even pressure to the wound.
Do not medicate or tranquilize the horse unless specifically
directed by your veterinarian. If the horse has suffered severe
blood loss or shock, the administration or certain drugs can be life
threatening.
If the eye is injured, do not attempt to treat. Await your
veterinarian.
If a horse steps on a nail or other sharp object and it remains
embedded in the hoof, first clean the hoof. Consult with your
veterinarian regarding a recommendation before you remove the nail.
If your veterinarian advises, carefully remove the nail to prevent
the horse from stepping on it and driving it deeper into the hoof
cavity. As you remove it, be sure to mark the exact point and depth
of entry with tape and/or a marker so the veterinarian can assess
the extent of damage. Apply antiseptic to the wound, and wrap to
prevent additional contamination.
All horses being treated for lacerations or puncture wounds will
require a tetanus booster.
Other Emergencies
There are far too many types of emergencies from heat stroke to
hyperkalemic periodic paralysis, bone fractures to snake bites,
foaling difficulties to colic -- to adequately cover them all in
this brochure. However, regardless of the situation, it's important
to remember these points:
-
Keep the horse as calm as possible. Your own calm behavior will
help achieve this.
-
Move the animal to a safe area where it is unlikely to be injured
should it go down.
-
Get someone to help you, and delegate responsibilities, such as
calling the veterinarian, retrieving the first aid kit, holding
the horse, etc.
-
Notify your veterinarian immediately. Be prepared to provide
specific information about the horse's condition, as mentioned
above, and other data that will help your practitioner assess the
immediacy of the danger and instruct you in how to proceed.
-
Listen closely and follow your equine practitioner's instructions.
-
Do not administer drugs, especially tranquilizers or sedatives,
unless specifically instructed to do so by the veterinarian.
Summary
Many accidents can be prevented by taking the time to evaluate your
horse's environment and removing potential hazards. Also, assess
your management routines to make them safer. Mentally rehearse your
emergency action plan. Preparation will help you stay calm in the
event of a real emergency. Keep your veterinarian's phone number
and your first aid kit handy. In an emergency, time is critical.
Don't be concerned with overreacting or annoying your veterinarian.
By acting quickly and promptly, you can minimize the consequences of
an injury or illness. Your horse's health and well-being depend on
it.
Equine Dentistry
HORSES HAVE TEETH TOO!
By Dr. James G. Hood DDS, PS Doctor of Dental Surgery
As a dentist I treat people with tooth problems daily. Routine
maintenance and regular check-ups are the best way to insure good
oral health in people. Icelandic Horses, likewise, can have tooth
problems and routine maintenance and regular check-ups are the best
insurance for good equine oral health.
Frequently, I see people with a broken or abscessed tooth. These
people can often not function at all in their job and frequently
can’t even carry on normal conversation. Pain creates bizarre
behaviors. How many of you have seen or experienced tooth pain? Yet,
the oral health of Icelandic horses is most probably the least well
treated overall area in equine health.
We expect Icelandic horses with tooth problems to focus on the task
at hand. Horses with sharp interfering cusps on their teeth we
expect to ride without head tossing, rearing, resisting the bridle,
tongue rolling or going on the bit. Why if the human species with a
tooth problem can exhibit poor performance, do we expect the equine
species to exhibit anything other than poor performance?
The Icelandic horse evolved as a grazing animal and the best food
source for horses is natural grass. Horses were designed for
continuous mastication (grass, hay or stalls).
As Icelandic horses became domesticated grass is not always
available and hay has become necessary to keep horses. This is the
second best method to good equine nutrition and grain is third.
Wear on the teeth of Icelandic horses is affected by these changing
diets of the horse, grass, hay and grain. A grazing animal with use
and wear it’s front teeth more than a stalled hay and grain fed
animal. Maintenance therefore will be different.
Equine dentistry of Icelandic Horses encompasses all aspects of the
oral health in horses. In the past Icelandic horses with bad teeth
were eliminated by natural selection. Today, a well maintained
horses’ dentition can extend the life of that horse for decades!
How do you recognize dental problems in an Icelandic horse? This is
a good question and I’ll answer it first with a statement. Riders
should be feeders. Observe your equine regularly while eating.
Problems with your Icelandic Horse will show up in the following
ways:
-
Change in chewing habits
-
Loss of body condition
-
Undigested feed particles in manure
-
Foul odor from mouth or nostrils
-
Discharge from the mouth or nostrils
-
Swellings of the face, jaw or mouth tissue
If you notice any of these points in your Icelandic Horse please
contact an equine dentist for your horse immediately. You will be
rewarded by having a happy and well-behaved Icelandic horse.
Begin early with oral examinations. On humans a good rule of thumb
is: Brush your teeth twice a day and see your dentist twice a year.
With Icelandic horses the twice a year vet or equine dentist
check-ups are a good idea through age 5 (when they have a full
compliment of equine teeth). After age 5 once a year for most
Icelandic horses is adequate.
The most common dental problems in Icelandic horses include:
-
Sharp enamel points
-
Retained caps (primary teeth are lost at the approximate age of 2½ -
4 ½ years of age)
-
Discomfort from wolf teeth (exposed and blind)
-
Missing or broken teeth (stallions get kicked)
-
Abnormal wear of occlusal surface
-
Infected teeth or gums
-
Misalignment due to congenital defect or injury
Older Icelandic horses in colder climates often will colic due to
cold water sensitivity on worn teeth. The cold sensitivity causes
them to drink less, so be aware and warm water for your horses in
the wintertime.
In closing I’d like to reiterate teeth, human or equine, and their
regular care and maintenance are very important to overall health.
If something doesn’t feel right, it’s probably not right. Observe
your horse frequently. They are a great breed and we need to take
care of their teeth.
Riding Tips
Perfecting the Tolt
By Hrodmar Bjarnason |
|
Riders
experience different difficulties keeping their horses in a
clean beat tolt. What can you do to get your horse in a good
balanced, beated tolt? The general answer to such a question
is, of course, for all individual riders in such a situation, to
improve their knowledge and skill as a rider.
To improve the beat of the horse in tolt, the rider must
understand the movements of the horse's legs in tolt, as well as
what is happening in the horse's body when he isn't going
correctly in tolt. We have to know in what way the horses move
their front legs, respective to their hind legs.
THREE DIFFERENT TYPES OF TOLT
Usually, we talk about three types of tolt; a clean four-beated
tolt; trot tolt, which is somewhere between trot and tolt, and;
pace tolt, which is somewhere between tolt and pace (depending
on how pacy the horse is in his tolt).
In a clean-beated tolt, the horse has an even four-beated
gait, in which the time difference is even between every leg's
groundtouch. The movements of the legs are the same as in walk,
with the following differences:
-
Every
stage of the horse's movement is going faster;
-
Instead
of having two or three legs on the ground at the same time, as
at the walk, in tolt, the horse has only one or two feet on
the ground at the same time.
-
The
horse has to be more collected in tolt to be able to carry
most of his weight on his hind legs. Then the horse is
supposed to be able to tolt in a good way.
In trot tolt, which is not unusual for four-gaited horses, the
beat is uneven in such a way that the time difference between
the lateral legs is longer compared to a clean-beated tolt and,
at the same time, the time difference is shorter between the
diagonal legs, i.e. the horse is coming closer to trot in his
movement.
The opposite is true for pace tolt, i.e. the time differences
are shorter between the lateral legs (the horse is coming
closer to the pace in his movement and longer between the
diagonal legs, compared to a clean-beated tolt).
|
To change an uneven beat into a clean-beated tolt, we have
to know how the horse moves his front legs, in respect to
his hind legs. |
CORRECTING INTO A CLEAN TOLT
Understanding the mechanics of a true tolt, vs. a trot tolt or a
pace tolt is essential to correcting the gait.
Trot Tolt: The most important thing to clean up the
beat is to delay the movements of the horse's hind legs and try
to keep the legs on the ground for a longer time. At the same
time, we try to let the horse leave the ground as fast as
possible with the front legs and to return back to the ground
fast, as well. By doing this, the time difference between the
parallel legs starts to be shorter and, correspondingly, the
time differences start to be longer between the diagonal legs.
Pace Tolt: The opposite is true to clean up a pace
tolt. There we have to delay the movements of the front legs
from the ground, i.e., keeping their front legs on the ground as
long as possible. At the same time, we have to help the horse
to move their hind legs faster, i.e. the horse has to leave the
ground as soon as possible, with their hind legs. while it
starts to be shorter between the diagonal legs at the same time.
To change an uneven beat into a clean-beated tolt, we have to
know how the horse moves their front legs, in respect to their
hind legs. There are certain differences in how the horse moves
his legs and this difference determines to what degree we can
change the horse's movements in front, in response to their hind
legs. As can be seen on al old shoe from the front feet, they
are always thinner in the toe part. This indicates that the
horse breaks over the toe when the front leg is leaving the
ground. The hind leg goes almost straight up, and thereby
straight down to the ground as well, therefore, the shoes are
evenly thin on the hind feet. this kind of movement makes the
horse not as vulnerable to different weights on his hind legs,
compared to his front legs.
The methods used to affect the beat
By increasing the length of the hoof in all directions, the hoof
will be heavier. When the rider uses this method, it is
important that all basic rules in shoeing are kept. That means
a correctly made toe axis. Another effect from a bigger hoof is
that a longer toe axis delays the movement further, which helps
horses to find the right balance in tolt. Also a bigger (wider)
hoof makes it easier for the horse to move and he starts to be
more relaxed in his back.
A well-known method is to put heavier shoes on his front legs,
and let the shoe be as a natural extension of the hoof.
Horse's movements are affected differently by increasing the
weight. It depends on the strength of the horse, as well as
their movements. A horse with rather big movements in tolt is
more easily affected compared to a horse with small movements,
so it more often needs a lighter weight in the shoes compared to
a horse with smaller movements.
A common method is to put boots on a horse's front legs. The
weight of the boots differs from 80 grams to around 300 grams.
Check how boots affect your horse, and what weight suits him
best. If boots affect the beat positively in tolt, then it is
often better to put a heavier shoe on for about five to six
weeks and use the boots less often. A horse can become sore
from using boots for a long time. Using heavier shoes also
gives the rider the opportunity to use boots together with them,
if the horse is still pacy in tolt.
After five or six weeks, ask the farrier to change back to the
usual size of shoe, which is normally 8mm thick. A new 8 mm
shoe is almost as heavy as an old 10 mm shoe. To help to keep
the balance of the horse in tolt, the farrier should keep the
hoof a little longer than usual. This means, instead of taking
away the new growth of the hoof, from these last six weeks, the
farrier may leave an extra 1 cm. This prevents the changes on
the hoof from being too great which would affect the movement of
the horse too much.
The hooves of the hind legs are kept small and light. In some
cases, shoes made of aluminum are used to make the hoof as light
as possible.
Tolt Tolt:
The following can be done:
The hooves of the front legs should be small and light,
which make it easier for the horse to break over the toe. In
some cases, no shoes at all are used (if the ground allows
that). Otherwise, shoes made of aluminum are used. An
alternative method is to trim the hoof, so that the front part
of the toe (about half of the height of the shoe) is rasped
off. This makes it easier for the horse to break over his foot,
and faster as well.
Keep the hind legs heavy. As was mentioned earlier,
because of how the horse moves his hind legs, the differences in
weight has to be huge, if it is supposed to affect his movements
of the hind legs. This means that the hoof has to be bigger and
the shoes have to be at least 10 mm thick.
3) As an extra help, have your farrier let the heel be a
little lower than usual. This can delay the horse's movement of
his hind legs, and affect the movement in such a way that he
brings his hind legs further forward before he reaches the
ground.
Changing the horse's movement through shoeing always gives a
very limited result if the rider doesn't use his/her aids and
his/her body in a proper way. The rider has to know and
understand the coordination between these different aids in tolt
as well as in other gaits. |
Some of the desirable conformation points of an Icelandic horse are: a long neck and a
full, thick mane, forelock and tail. Their manes and tails are so full and the hair
so coarse that rarely are they tangled. Icelandic horses have a height of
about 13-14 hands and their adult weight is about 800 lbs. The Icelandic horses have a
stride longer than most breeds and above all, a gentle disposition. Sound too good to be
true? They really are.
Young Icelandic horses are first ridden at four years of age. The initial training of an
Icelandic horse takes about two months. Afterwards the four-year-old is allowed a break in
the pasture for nearly a year before further training. More in-depth training
usually begins after this break when the Icelandic horse is five years old and is fully
grown.
Ponying of the Icelandic horse is the practice of riding one horse and leading others to
exercise them. The rider is usually in the center with horses being led on either side.
Many other breeds of horses would not cooperate with this, but the Icelandic horse's
temperament allows this joyful exercise.
